The Trails of Ladakh - Day 6

Friday 15th, Yangthang to Hemis Shupachen (5 miles / 8 kilometres)

Although we slept in the guest house, because there was no heating we slept in our sleeping bags on the bed. I had a very poor night’s sleep. My nose was blocked and it made me gasp for breath. At times I started to hyperventilate and panic slightly which was a bit scary and I really had to focus hard to try to calm down.

I also had a strange sensation with what felt like small cramps starting at my feet and moving up my body. This continued for a few hours but eventually stopped. I have no idea what it was but I’m just grateful I woke up tired but otherwise fine. I guess it may have been altitude because I was so dehydrated that I drank a whole litre of water, which did seem to improve things.

We had breakfast outside where it was chilly. But what an amazing and unique experience to have breakfast while the sun rose from behind a mountain in front of us. Porridge and toast have never tasted so good!

After breakfast we set off downhill out of the village and cut across country for a steady climb to Spango La Pass at 13,400 feet (4,082 metres). The guides set a slow but steady pace and we completed the trek to Hemis in a little over 4 hours. The views at the top of Spango La Pass are, as most other views in Ladakh, truly spectacular.

We arrive at our camp site called Seeru just before 12 and eat a simple lunch of soup followed by chapati and vegetables, washed down with black tea.

Hemis is a small village dominated by a huge statue of Buddha built in 2016. We stroll around the village and meet some locals.

It's amazing that the way of life here is so basic and simple. The people are so hardy, weather beaten. They obviously live a very hard life but the ones we've met are always cheerful. And when you greet them with ‘Julley’ which is the universal greeting for hello or thank you, they just beam the brightest smile.

#travel #ladakh #india #himalayas #trekking